This is another excellent long crack route on the shadiest wall at Tahquitz. Route-finding is quite easy. Much of the climbing is hand-jamming. Pitch 2 (5.8) has an overhang with a few nice moves. The crux third pitch has a 12 foot long, slightly overhanging jam crack, and then a short overhang with a weird exit move.
Protection
The protection on this route is good – bring extra hand-sized pieces.
By Chris Miller Administrator Mar 3, 2006 rating: 5.9
This route has some good jamming on it and while nearby Whodunit is swarming with climbers this route often sits vacant. Possible to do in 4 rope-stretching pitches with a 60 meter rope, although this means not using some of the nice belay ledges found on the route.
Continuing straight up on the last pitch, instead of cutting left to join Whodunit (like the guidebook shows), takes you over a strenuous roof (5.10) and ends at a convenient two bolt anchor.
This is as good a climb as Whodunit in almost all respects, especially if you start at the base of the buttress in the middle of the recess and do the first pitch or two of Constellation (5.8 or so)avoiding the first easy scrambling pitches.
The crux is an unusual crack configuration I've never seen anywhere else.
Reading the above comment, I started on Constellation and climbed up the slabby buttress, belaying on a ledge below the slabby face with a solitary bolt. Fun climbing and a nice alternative to the Consolation start.
I decided to give the slab above a shot and ended up taking a 20' winger onto the bolt, blowing off just a move or two from the top. On my second go, I just traversed right to easier ground and then up.
My partner and I felt the left facing corner of the second pitch (5.8 in the guide) felt slightly harder than the twin cracks that are indicated as the crux . The jams were just so good in the twin cracks (reminiscent of "Thumbs Down Left" in JTree) that it just didn't seem that hard.
I agree with Adam, P2 is harder than 5.8, and sustained! P3 crux is an awesome and unusual double crack. Bring your best jam game people, this one's pretty burly. I had a much easier time on Human Fright.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: The Idyllwild City Dump. Feb 12, 2008 rating: 5.9
Every year I end-up soloing this route for one reason or another (Partner didn't show up)and every year I find gear left on it.Wires, nuts, cams, you name it.Once I found a whole pitch worth of gear about ten pieces or more all with runners and beaners Just like someone pulled down their rope and left everything.So if going to lead this route and leave all your gear for me.Let me thank you in advance.I do appreciate it. :)
Northwest Recess
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