Edgehogs 

Wander up to a bolt anchor for pitch 1. I cheated and rapped off from the top of pitch 2 so I'll only describe my impressions of that...I have 5.11b scrawled in the margins of my dog-eared guide. There was a very tricky bit for me at the beginning of the second pitch, which felt quite hard. I failed to clip a bolt (got distracted by someone telling me I was off route, they thought I was on MMT) just before heading left up wavy/undulating rock - this gave me increasingly scary moments before getting to the next bolt - luckily I didn't fall. I brought Tony up and when he got to my missed clip I said to him "you'd think someone would have put a bolt right there" - he replied with "there is one".

Be sure to move left onto the face at the end of pitch 2. I took several falls trying to climb directly up the arete.

Also, I cut my rope when I slipped off pitch 4. I was tryign to climb up the arete (off route again -- you move left) when I slipped off. The rope scoured along the edge of the very sharp arete and it was cut almost halfway through. Very scary. I retied in below the cut and finished the pitch, quite shaken.