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The North Buttress
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Lip Up Fatty 
North Buttress 
Uneventful, The 

North Buttress 

5.5

   

FA: R. Smith and Don Wilson, August 1952
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 7 pitches, 800 feet
Views: 342 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006


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Description 

The North Buttress of Tahquitz Rock is split at the bottom, with two ridges. The North Buttress route starts on the right side of the right ridge. Four or five pitches (4th class and 5.0) up crack systems on low angle rock lead to a series of broken ledges with two large trees. The upper tree has a prominent “J” shape near the bottom. From the lower tree, go up a short distance, and then traverse left (crux) across an open face – exposed and not obvious. The traverse takes you to a crack system – climb up this for two more pitches (5.3) to the top.


Protection 

standard rack