Left Ski Track is location 200 right and around for Open Book. 2 paralle right curving cracks in the middle of the South Face. It has a series of variation from 5.6 to 5.9.
P1 - From the tree there is a sloping platform, walk out on to it next to the large block. I fyou keep going that will take you to the Chauvinist. Move up and over (can be hard to protect)then move left to a crack leading to the face between the "ski tracks". Move up and stay to the left on great jugs to a 2 bolt belay.
P2 - Climb the left 'ski track' crack to its end at a small ledge with a fixed pin. Then take the classic "Step Around" move that take you to around the corner to the right to a series of ledges. Belay on the first good ledge.
P3 - climbs the crack system up and right pass a series of ledges. at the 3rd ledge move left and up to a vertical wall with double cracks. Move left on to a 4th class ledge to take you to the top.
Variation 1 - during the 2nd pitch at the end of the crack on the small ledge climb up and left past a bolt (5.9) to a crack system that leads to the top.
V2 - From the second belay, climb straight up the arete/crack that blanks into a slab with a bolt that lead to the 4th class ledge. Then move tot he top.
V3 - On the 3rd ptich from the last ledge move out right up a 5.6 crack until it ends and traverse right across the slab and up to the top.
V4 *** - and the Best finish (5.8) At the begining of the leftward traverse at the 4th class ledge, climb directly over a bulge to a pin then delicate friction moves to the top.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Apr 8, 2007 rating: 5.7+
This is a fun climb! Did it in March (it was hot all over SoCal so we snuck in for a great day while the climbing gods were looking the other way ;-) The step around is awesome but don't be confused by the topo - climb up onto the block, clip the upper piton, and do the step around with your feet on the lower section of the block. This move is not done below the block as the topo shows, unless you want it to be a lot harder than 5.7. I prefer the variation 2 above the standard second belay - it's a more aesthetic line that climbs well and the slab moves at the top are sweet! The step around is definately the money but I think the move is considerably harder than the rating given for this climb.
By Greg DeMatteo From: Flagstaff, Az May 12, 2007 rating: 5.6
Probably the most unique 5.6 I've ever done. Slinging chickenheads and pimpin up the corner and then the airy step-around. Highly recommended.
Really fun , lots of nuts typical for tahhquitz. I found a big piece useful, both in the 2nd anchor and to protect for my second above the bolt on the finish pitch. A red tricam protected the move getting into the crack off the slab way better than a cam, i cant imagine climbing here without tricams.
Lots of fun! I'm a newish leader on multipitch routes, so here are my impressions for other fresh faces looking for an intro to Tahquitz.
Go for it. This route has generous placements for protection throughout. I will echo Bill Olszewski's advice to not get lured below the block on the step-around. The fixed pitons are a nice guide. As on most traversing moves, remember to protect after the traverse -- If your second is nervous a solid placement after the step-around will reduce fears of a swinging fall and thus lessen the amount of Terrorface.
Bring long slings, and actively plan your placements to reduce rope drag.
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