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Open Book Area 
South Face - Left Side 
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South Face

Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 24, 2006
Administrator: C Miller
Views: 16,497 page views

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BETA PHOTO: The great South Face ©


Description 

This area is around the right side of Tahquitz which includes the Open Book area. This area offers some short climbs and is warm on cool day but heats up during the summer. It starts with the Open book Dihedral and keeps moving right and up. This area offers a variety of climbing, from good moderates to stout to even aid climbing.

The usual descent is the Friction Route, but there is also a rappel route starting on the 2 bolt anchor atop the Open book to a 2 bolt anchor for Green Arch and then down to the ground (you will need 2 ropes for this rappel).


Getting There 

From Lunch Rock head up and right to the base. Then follow the base around and right until you see the Open Book Dihedral. This is the start of the area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Face:
Left Ski Track   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   South Face - Left Side
The Chauvinist   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   South Face - Left Side
Mechanic's Route   5.8 R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Open Book Area
Open Book   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 490 feet   Open Book Area
Browse More Classics in South Face

Featured Route For South Face
Second pitch, the crux runout section.  With positive pocket holds like that, not too scary.

Mechanic's Route 5.8 R  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book Area
This shares the first bit of the Open Book and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA