Tony Tennessee on the True Horn at the crux. (c) C...
Description
Traitor Horn is an area classic, and has a great exposed crux when you pull on to the 'True Horn'!
P1 & 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Jensen's Jaunt (5.6) until you can head right just below the headwall to a protruding horn of rock. This is the 'Traitor Horn'. Traverse up and right to a small niche and belay. Try to protect this traverse well for your second, as the traversing moves can be delicate.
P3 - Climb up and over to the right. There will be 2 pitons just before the move onto the 'True Horn' (crux). The crack directly above with the pitons is a different route, and instead move to the right onto the horn. Then up, up, and over to a good belay spot with a tree growing out of a crack. If your second is not strong or is scared to move to the horn, make sure the rope is in the crack and not out away from it. I know this sounds wrong, but if your 2nd falls they will be hanging in air and will be hard to get them back onto the rock.
P4 is long up a low angle slab to the top.
You can also start the climb with Coffin Nail (5.8) or On the Road (5.10c). Also El Camino Real (5.10a) is another do way to go.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 12, 2006
Name is a pun on the 1931 movie "Trader Horn".
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Mar 12, 2006 rating: 5.8
One of the wildest, most exposed 5.8's I've ever done. The traverse onto the horn and standing up on the horn were exciting and memorable. The crux move off the horn had me sweating too.
My partner was too scared to traverse onto the horn, so she climbed straight up the crack in the back of the alcove. Harder, but a lot more secure!
Followed this route yesterday with my friend Tom who turns sixty on Wednesday. Fell making the move onto the horn the first time, fell twice making the move off the horn. What a kick! Hats off to the fellows who first did this route along time ago!
Finally got up the nerve to lead this one. Passed the P2/3 niche belay and anchored higher up so my partner could anchor in the niche for my run at the crux. Both traverses are delicate and have very few options for pro. Clipped the lost arrow just so I could be on something, anything while I set a cam higher up because the overhanging dihedral really spits you out! The crux was no issue but the exposure!!! I think the true crux is just protecting the horn. And standing up on the horn - my legs were weak! This is a must do for anyone who loves Tahquitz. Traitor Horn is an awesome climb!
Fantastic! A must do. Nice introduction to exposed climbing. Test your self on this route if you want to know how well you will react to exposure. The exposed moves are amazing and quickly over.
West Face - Right Side
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