Fred Batliner looking suitably relieved after foll...
Description
A distinct line the forms the left margin of the West face Bulge. From the FBT ledge, climbing up and to the right up easy ledges to establish a belay (4th class). Or Take the Vampire and move up and left to establish a belay (5.7). The first pitch is long and the Crux. Pull a 2 little bulge/roof (10b) to a good ledge. the 2nd is a thin finger crack on the left wall to a small stance (5.8). The 3rd a long pitch lieback the corner and around a small overhang, then move up and right to turn the summit overhanges (pitch 4)
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Sep 4, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Awesome route that follows a great line. The crux pitch, in my opinion, is definitely stout although the gear is good. I also found the ending 5.7 pitch rather exciting - at least the way I climbed it.
We started at the base of The Trough, and then angled left towards a tree and a belay. The next pitch (From Bad Traverse) continued angling up and left and eventually gained a good ledge to the right of the obvious manzanita covered ledge. CONTINUE UP TO THE NEXT LEDGE PAST THIS FIRST LEDGE (up a 5.7-5.8 crack). I belayed on the first ledge and regretted it on the crux pitch - too much rope drag!
P1 (5.10b) - The crux pitch is long and goes at 5.10b (in my opinion). Work up the left trending crack tackling bulges, thin cracks, and wide sections as they present themselves. Eventually step left into another crack and head upwards to a belay stance near a sloping ledge and below twin cracks on the left wall.
P2 (5.8) - Climb the fun, twin cracks for about 70 feet to a nice stance.
p3 (5.7) - Despite the grade I found this a challenging pitch! I'm still not 100% sure I was on route, but the rock was clean so I assume I was. If anyone knows let me know! Head up to and layback the wide, left facing corner to a roof. Pass the roof on the left and continue up a small crack. Place some gear and make an awkward, steep move up and left to gain another crack. The pro is tricky in the next section. Move up and right (I managed to get a good steel nut somewhere around here in a pin scar) and along the undercling until you get to an obvious break. Get some pro here. Climb up the jugs to the left and onto a good ledge. Now the sting in the tail! I had tremendous rope drag here, and the next 15 feet of "5.7" slab climbing was relatively terrifying with the rope drag and 40 foot leg breaking fall potential.... but it worked out :) Was I on route? The rope drag was horrible despite good use of long slings, and the slab is featureless... so use caution.
Gear - Double camalots #0.5-#3. A #4 camalot could be useful. Good helping of nuts including small wires and/or steel nuts. One set of TCUs. Bring LOTS of long slings!
Heh, it's been a while since I climbed this one but I had almost the exact same experience as Andy on the last pitch. Bad rope drag, looking up at a featureless slab facing a bad fall, and wondering if I was on route. I ended up deciding to back track a bit and head around to the left, which ended up being casual.
First couple pitches are stellar.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA May 5, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Just did this yesterday and wished I had done more research (I did basically none). Here are my notes.
We skimped on the large gear (#3 and #4 C4) which was a mistake. This climb requires the gamut of sizes. Black Alien to #4. Throw in some micro nuts for good measure.
Andy has it right for the start "CONTINUE UP TO THE NEXT LEDGE PAST THIS FIRST LEDGE (up a 5.7-5.8 crack)." This ledge is above and right of the large tree. The crack he mentions is splitter.
There was an unexpected and delicate traverse left on the crux pitch. We did this around where the crack widens to #4 C4. Just know that at some point you will want to switch to the left crack.
For the last pitch, after you pass the roof you will wonder where to go. The way is left for a few more moves. I started out right past a horn which was definitely not safe. After heading left you will either head up and right to rope-drag hell like Andy and I, or may be lucky enough to find a way that is "casual" like Aaron. Maybe Aaron was just smart and slung his gear long.
On P1 I got a great view of a woman beginning the traverse / flake pitch of The Vampire. Blank vertical slab with her climbing right up it - great photo if you have some buddies willing to coordinate.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jun 9, 2008 rating: 5.10b
Climbed it again on 6/9/08. More notes....
Shady until 1pm in early Summer
I brought nuts, micro nuts, double cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. I brought a #4 this time. Next time, I'll replace the #4 with a #3.5
Belaying on the higher ledge as mentioned above is much better for the first pitch. Way less rope drag and breaks up the longer crux pitch. We got here in two long pitches from the base of "The Trough". Expect some route finding challenges if you are not familiar with the terrain.
Crux pitch is still stout... 10b IMO.
Last pitch. There is only one way to go, I investigated all other options and there aren't any. Up the lieback, around the roof, up the crack, jog left, then up and right. Keep going right and then step up on to the ledge. I extended everything as best I could and the rope drag still SUCKED. Rather than fight the drag on the 5.7 slab, I just pulled up 20 feet of slack, held it my hand, and padded up the slab. Way better than fighting the drag, and it is a NO FALL zone anyways... so what does it matter if I have 20' of rope in my hand :)
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