Sonja seconding the second pitch of Fingertrip! W...
Description
This route starts just before you start going back up hill to Open Book. P1: Climb an awesome 5.7 layback crack to a tree. P2: Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left. Angle left 15' before the crack ends. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below a roof. P3: Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to lunch ledge. P4: Climb up and finish on 5.4 runout friction slab (1 bolt).
Protection
1 set of nuts, 1 set of hexes, 1 each TCUs to #2 cam
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 6, 2006 rating: 5.7
Outstanding/mega classic route on super quality rock.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 11, 2006
One could say that Fingertrip ends at Lunch Ledge, and many climbs end here. Above there are a couple of variations to finish from the Lunch Ledge terminus, both variations start with the same steep steps behind Lunch Ledge...
The left route traverses along a very exciting diagonal weakness to clip a bolt then head up a slab (5.4).
The right route follows a 5.6 crack, and I suppose is a more fitting finale to most of the routes below.
If you want to preserve your sense of adventure dont read this. On the second pitch after the tree, go above tree 30-40' and you'll know when to traverse left by following the yellow band using your feet for a fun airy few moves before you gain a left facing corner. On the third pitch (approaching the roofs), aim for a bush up and left with a big hold 2 feet to its right.
The third pitch is terrific family fun. Well protected and fun moves. Great for someone who is trying to break into multi-pitch moderates. The exposure is really tame. Get on it. As many years as I have been climbing here, I am surprised how uncrowded it is.
I think it would be a great idea to establish a rap route down from Lunch ledge. Granted, this could get traffic jams. Down climbing to the Open Book rap station can be a bit intimidating. I fixed a rope to a big tree to get down to it but it was removed before the next weekend.
Similar to the response to your comments on Piton Pooper, no convenience anchors have been required on Fingertrip since 1946. There's no need to add any now.
Fixed lines and added hardware will likely always "be removed before the next weekend." :)
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 5, 2008