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West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
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Angel's Fright 
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Angel's Fright 

5.5

   

FA: Jim Smith and William Rice, September 1936
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 2,164 page views

Submitted By: Stephanie on Feb 21, 2006


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Paul Goss on pitch below Lunch Ledge.


Description 

The crux is the first 40' of the climb. Start up a chimney then move into a nice crack system. The second and third pitches follow the crack system up to lunch ledge. From lunch ledge climb the crack to the runout 5.4 friction slab (1 bolt).


Protection 

1 set of nuts, 1 set of hexes, BD Cams: .5 - 2



Photos of Angel's Fright Slideshow Add Photo
Fun and easy second pitch of Angel's Fright.

Fun and easy second pitch of Angel's Fright.

Brad climbing below lunch ledge on Angel's Fright.

Brad climbing below lunch ledge on Angel's Fright.

Brett coming up Angel's Fright; just about to join Jonny, and I on the Lunch Ledge.<br /><br />Taken 6/13/07

Brett coming up Angel's Fright; just abo...

Looking up at pitch 1 of Angel's Fright (Tahquitz, CA) - what a great squeeze chimney/crack.  There's a crack inside, on the right, that you can get some suh-weet foot jams in.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 1 of Angel's Fright (Tahquitz,...


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By Roger Linfield
Feb 21, 2006

The belay ledges on this climb are all quite large, making this a good choice if you have three or more climbers.

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.6

A great moderate (of which there are many) at Tahquitz that features fun climbing up a corner system and a very exposed finish on the upper slab.

The name is a take-off of Angel's Flight, the "World's shortest railroad".

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.6

Fun climb! I thought the steep section of P1 (P2 in the guidebook) was the crux. Got off-route up high but figured it out and finished with the fingertip "lieback" crack. Nice!

By Marcy
Aug 27, 2007
rating: 5.6

I recommend the fingertip lieback variation at the top - it is super FUN!

By Mark L
May 14, 2008

The steep face climbing after the chimney felt the toughest part of the climb - deciding whether to go left or right. Went right and it might have been a little harder that way + rope drag got bad. Dihedral pitch is super easy and the roof is easier than it looks. For those leaving lunch ledge the first time, could be helpful to get beta from someone while you are there if you want to do the 5.3 slab finish instead of the crack.

By Dan Costello
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.5

This was a lot of fun and one of the first routes I ever led, so I learned some lessons here. As mentioned by others, Pitch 1 (Pitch 2 in the Vogel/Gaines guidebook) after the chimney does present a little route-finding opportunity, or it did for me.

The topo, route description, chalk marks, and old fixed gear are useful guides. But in the end being alert to the rock, looking around, thinking ahead, and developing a picture of the route when your vision affords is better. I earned myself a little downclimb from trying to treat this route like a Joshua Tree chalk railroad.

I'll echo some of the other commentators again: bring plenty of slings, and plan your placements to minimize rope drag. There's nothing like rope drag to turn a 5-nothing topout on smooth slab into a nightmare as having to fight your body weight in rope friction with only your own poor planning to blame :/

All things considered, though, a worthwhile and memorable route!