Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Northwest Recess
Show routes:
Select route...
Consolation, The 
Edgehogs 
Error, The 
Long Climb, The 
Sahara Terror 
Snakes on Everything 
Souvenir, The 
Swallow, The 
Whodunit 
Wong Climb 

Whodunit 

5.9

   

FA: Joe Fitschen and Royal Robbins September 1957, FFA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps 1966
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 8 pitches, 800 feet
Views: 1,849 page views

Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 18, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Follow the obvious line of cracks to the top! (Jus...


Description 

While the guide quotes 8 pitches it can easily be condensed to 5. The cracks on this climb are stunning and very straight forward. There is quite a variety from low angle laybacking to hand cracks and eventually a chimney. A crux lies at the exit to a chimney where you get a bomber fist jam and have to work your feet up and get out of the top of the chimney. There is one bolted belay and all the rest are gear anchors. There are at least 2 good belay ledges.


Protection 

A standard rack will suffice. After going over the roof on the last pitch trend up right on slabby ground to the top. Meandering cracks will lead you to the top of Tahquitz



Add Photo Photos of Whodunit
Starting up the second pitch. Good stuff. All of it.

Starting up the second pitch. Good stuff. All of i...

Unidentified climber (I know he's from Colorado) approaching the 4th belay.

Unidentified climber (I know he's from Colorado) a...

Climbing the 5.9 chimney

Climbing the 5.9 chimney

Lukes shadow on whodunit

Lukes shadow on whodunit

Laura climbs the first pitch of Whodunit

Laura climbs the first pitch of Whodunit

Good look at the start of the first pitch. That is after you climb up 30 feet of 5.5 to a bush is where this picture is taken from.

BETA PHOTO: Good look at the start of the first pitch. That is...

Top of 7th pitch, right before the roof at the top.

Top of 7th pitch, right before the roof at the top...


Add Comment Comments on Whodunit
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 4, 2008
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Feb 18, 2006
rating: 5.9

My memory is that the crux is the first pitch... 5.9 slab climbing in and around some overlaps. But I could have been a tad off route.

By Dpurf
From: Superior
Feb 21, 2006

Andy, I believe you are right about the crux. The move over to the 2 bolt belay and then the frist move onto the second seen to be the hardest bit for me. The Chimney exit could be a head crux, because there is some air under you. But the hand jam is bomber and feet I thought to be good.

Dave

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Mar 6, 2006

IMHO The best long moderate route in SoCal. Whenever I need to get back to the reason why I began climbing, I jump in my car with a mate and go climb Whodunit.

The red dotted line in the beta photo is a little to the right of the actual route.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
Jul 29, 2006
rating: 5.9

Bring some wide (4") gear for one of the pitches. Its a little offwidthy in a section or two...

Theres a good ledge every 100-150 feet.

By Floridaputz
Aug 21, 2006

My first and only climb on Taquitz. I thought it was outstanding. Such a great varity of crack climbing. We had a cool clear day and no one else around.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Sep 4, 2006
rating: 5.9

Just climbed this route again after 15 years, and this climb simply rocks! You get everything on this baby - slab, fat crack, chimney, hand crack, finger crack... phew, the list goes on and on. Bring some small wires and/or steel nuts for the first pitch - you'll be wanting them. I also appreciated the #4 camalot on the wide pitch above the chimney. Bring lots of long slings as well. It tops out right on the summit of Tahquitz - for an added bonus. I disagree with the description saying this route could easily be done in 5 pitches. We combined the last two (per the Vogel/Gaines topo and just made it with a 60m) and did the entire route in 7 pitches.. BUT attempting to do it in five pitches will guarantee some pretty serious rope drag and less than pleasant belays.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Sep 18, 2006

This is a favorite route at Tahquitz. There are several variations higher up, including a sweet finger crack out right, then left to a slightly overhanging dihedral. Simply outstanding.

By Bill Olszewski
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 10, 2007

Definitely gets my vote for best climb at Tahquitz. Whodunnit is a STELLAR 5.9! I try to run up it at least once every season.

I agree with Darshan but must paraphrase: there's a good belay ledge every 150 - 200 feet. Andy, it can be easily climbed in 5 pitches, that's the only way I've ever done it on a 60m. But I have to admit, P4 is a true rope-stretcher; last time up I literally lassoed that tree (that grows out of the crack at the start of the 4th class/5.2 final pitch) with a 4' runner to start my anchor. ;-) The key is to 4th class the start to the right of the climb to an obvious belay ledge, then head up and left over the slabs, bypassing the bolted anchor and setting up a belay closer to the chimney.

I'd say the first pitch is the crux, but there are only two 5.9 friction slab moves (albeit a little dicey :0) Dave's right - the move out of the chimney is a head crux; great jam, probably 5.8, EASY to protect. But that's another thing that's great about Whodunnit - it eats gear all the way up.

If you want to mix it up a bit next time you climb this route, try this - my friend Adam and I did Whodunnit passive - full set of nuts, medium to large hexes, three tri-cams. I'm not usually one to leave the cams in the car but this was really fun for a change and this climb is well suited for it.

By Bruce Willey
From: Big Pine, CA
Sep 10, 2007

does anyone have any information on how this route got its name? Heard that Royal Robbins found a mysterious pin when they were doing the "FA" but nothing more.

Thanks...

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Sep 20, 2007

I had the opportunity to ask Royal about the route name and spelling. He said that they named the route "Hoodenett" (pronounced who'-dnit with the emphasis on "who"). This spelling can be seen in older guidebooks including the Wilts guide. Later guidebooks bastardized the name as "Whodunit." Anyway, yes, it appears the name came from a mysterious pin found along the route.


Pasted from the interwebs:
14 Feb, 1998
"....I thought you might be interested in the background of the name. At the time, this route was the only obvious line on the north face that had not been climbed, so Royal and I set out on it. We knew it hadn't been climbed because of the pristine nature of the first pitch which in those days would have been aided by anyone (glad to hear it now goes free). Indeed, for three or four pitches there were no piton scars or any sign of previous passage. And then, somewhere around the middle of the route, we came across a piton. How did it get there? Who did it? From there to the top there was no other sign of previous climbing, so we felt quite comfortable in claiming the first ascent. But in a fit of youthful humor and a naive attempt at worldly sophistication, we decided to give the obvious question, "Who done it?" a French twist (although one wouldn't find "hoo" in French). Anyway, it was originally our phonetic equivalent of "hoo-da-nae" (hence, the otherwise inexplicable double t's at the end). Originally, we might have spelled it "...don..." or "...dun...", but Wilts got it "...den..." and that's fine with me. Vogel was onto something, of course, but while clarifying one bit of history he defaces another. So it goes. .....Taquitz was my climbing cradle, as it was for many of the top climbers in that and succeeding generations. For sheer pleasure in climbing I don't think any other area matches it. All the best,
Joe Fitschen"

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Sep 25, 2007

THE CLASSIC of Tahquitz!! Couldn't get any better!

By Bruce Willey
From: Big Pine, CA
Oct 2, 2007

Thanks Jon. Much appreciate it.

And hey, SP Dave Daly. Nice to see you making the rounds here. Yeah, it is indeed a great and classic route.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.9

Climbed it again on 6/11/08. In the sun from 11am in June. Hot. Climbed it in 6 pitches this time. First pitch to the bolts. Second pitch to the ledge. Third pitch out the chimney to the good stance. Fourth pitch up the crack, skip the first good ledge, and continue up to the next good ledge (above some jammed chockstones - which are rope eaters!). Fifth pitch starts left up the thin cracks, and then moves right. Go all the way up to a sloping stance about 40' below the roof.. Sixth pitch was over the roof and all the way to the top (60m+?). Five pitches is possible, but it would require linking the first two pitches.

By Murf
Jun 11, 2008

I hate to add to the ever growing debate about the true minimum number of pitches for this route. That being said, the bolts aren't the first belay. The bolts are the belay for Edgehogs. The first belay was always a rope stretcher to tree/first small ledge. With a partner comfortable with easy simul-climbing, the big ledge was a better bet.

By Robin like the bird
From: mountain center, Ca
Jul 4, 2008

I am wondering what people would grade this climb, grade III or Grade II