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Tahquitz Rock
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Tahquitz Rock


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Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Administrator: C Miller
Elevation: 7,000 feet
Latitude: 33.7602  Longitude: -116.6840 
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Todd Smith sends


Description 

Tahquitz Rock is the larger of the two crags above the town of Idyllwild and offers primarily traditional climbing from one to seven pitches in length.

Please note - these is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.


Getting There 

See the overview directions on how to reach Humber Park. Once at Humber Park locate the start of the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, which starts just past the Adventure Pass sign at a sharp left-hand turn. Follow the trail as it descends a small hill, makes a horseshoe bend and crosses a seasonal stream before leveling out and heading south. A few hundred yards down the trail you'll encounter a climber sign-in box, from which the climber's trail splits off and ascends the steep hillside to the base of Tahquitz. Plan of 30-60 minutes for the approach depending upon your degree of fitness and which portion of the rock you're aiming for.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz Rock:
White Maiden's Walkaway   5.1     Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet   Maiden Buttress
The Trough   5.4     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   West Face : West Face - Left Side
Angel's Fright   5.5     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
Left Ski Track   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   South Face : South Face - Left Side
Fingertrip   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Piton Pooper   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   West Face : West Face - Left Side
Coffin Nail   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   West Face : West Face - Right Side
The Long Climb   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet   Northwest Recess
Mechanic's Route   5.8 R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   South Face : Open Book Area
Traitor Horn   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Dave's Deviation   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   West Face : West Face - Left Side
Whodunit   5.9     Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet   Northwest Recess
Open Book   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 490 feet   South Face : Open Book Area
The Consolation   5.9     Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet   Northwest Recess
El Camino Real   5.10a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Human Fright   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
Super Pooper   5.10a/b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
The Vampire   5.11a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Fred   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
The Flakes   5.11     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Browse More Classics in Tahquitz Rock

Featured Route For Tahquitz Rock
Sonja seconding the second pitch of Fingertrip! What a sweet layback!

Fingertrip 5.7  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side
This route starts just before you start going back up hill to Open Book. P1: Climb an awesome 5.7 layback crack to a tree. P2: Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left. Angle left 15' before the crack ends. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below a roof. P3: Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to lunch ledge. P4: Climb up and finish on 5.4 runout friction slab (1 bolt)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Tahquitz Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca.

BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca.

Cool view of Tahquitz from Devil's Slide trail. Look for the helicopter by the climbing area (in the trees).

Cool view of Tahquitz from Devil's Slide trail. L...

Chris near the top of the second pitch of "Open Book",Tahquitz.

Chris near the top of the second pitch of "Open Bo...

A view of the trail... plan on a 30-50 minute hike.

A view of the trail... plan on a 30-50 minute hike...

Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot).

Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot).

I added this pic to show the distance of the hike from the road (taken from the summit).

I added this pic to show the distance of the hike ...

Kim, and Brett gearing up.<br /><br />Jonny looking over beta printed out from Mountain Project on some classic routes in the vicinity.<br /><br />Taken 6/13/07

Kim, and Brett gearing up.

Jonny looking over bet...

Tahquitz

BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz

An old wooden piton found by Todd Gordon on the second pitch of "Human Fright".<br />Photo by Blitzo.

An old wooden piton found by Todd Gordon on the se...

Tahquitz summit - late afternoon

Tahquitz summit - late afternoon

Sunset over Tahquitz Rock.

Sunset over Tahquitz Rock.

Amazing sunset at Tahquitz

Amazing sunset at Tahquitz

Amazing sunset at Tahquitz

Amazing sunset at Tahquitz

Tahquitz Rock overview.

BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.

The sign at the entrance to Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild.

The sign at the entrance to Humber Park(ing lot), ...

A view of Tahquitz Rock from below.

A view of Tahquitz Rock from below.

The Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail sign, Humber Park.

BETA PHOTO: The Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail sign, Humber Park.

The Penny Tree is right off the trail and not far below Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.

The Penny Tree is right off the trail and not far ...

Tahquitz Rock from the Google eye.

BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock from the Google eye.

The West Face of Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.

BETA PHOTO: The West Face of Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.

The new Tahquitz approach trail marker.

The new Tahquitz approach trail marker.


Comments on Tahquitz Rock Add Comment
Show which comments —
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 18, 2007

Here's a website with some great info on Tahquitz - www.sierraphotography.com/tahquitz/tahquitz.htm

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 19, 2009

There are few sights in California climbing more exciting than your first view of Tahquitz Rock. I still remember driving up early in the morning. I was still a young teen punk and the morning mist hung low. The first glimpse we really got was the view of the open book from the town. On the one hand it cries out: "come and get me!" On the other hand you can't help but remember all the historical figures that first cut their teeth here. You must look at and approach this place with a certain degree of respect and awe. I miss it so much!

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
May 4, 2009

Climbers, please stick to this trail in accessing the climbs on northwest, west, and south sides of Tahquitz so that erosion damage can be minimized. And encourage your friends to do likewise.

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 4, 2009

Tahquitz: the early years from Summit, June 1976.