Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006 Administrator: C Miller Elevation: 7,000 feet
Latitude: 33.7602 Longitude: -116.6840
Aerial photo/map | Weather Views: 141,667 page views
Tahquitz Rock is the larger of the two crags above the town of Idyllwild and offers primarily traditional climbing from one to seven pitches in length.
Please note - these is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.
Getting There
See the overview directions on how to reach Humber Park. Once at Humber Park locate the start of the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, which starts just past the Adventure Pass sign at a sharp left-hand turn. Follow the trail as it descends a small hill, makes a horseshoe bend and crosses a seasonal stream before leveling out and heading south. A few hundred yards down the trail you'll encounter a climber sign-in box, from which the climber's trail splits off and ascends the steep hillside to the base of Tahquitz. Plan of 30-60 minutes for the approach depending upon your degree of fitness and which portion of the rock you're aiming for.
This is an excellent one-pitch hand crack, with sustained difficulty and great protection on good rock. I climbed it via the left start (recommended by others). The crux section (just above the junction of the two starts) has mostly good jams – a slight overhang to the wall and an awkward right lean to the crack make it difficult. ...[more]
Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.
There are few sights in California climbing more exciting than your first view of Tahquitz Rock. I still remember driving up early in the morning. I was still a young teen punk and the morning mist hung low. The first glimpse we really got was the view of the open book from the town. On the one hand it cries out: "come and get me!" On the other hand you can't help but remember all the historical figures that first cut their teeth here. You must look at and approach this place with a certain degree of respect and awe. I miss it so much!
Climbers, please stick to this trail in accessing the climbs on northwest, west, and south sides of Tahquitz so that erosion damage can be minimized. And encourage your friends to do likewise.
Tahquitz Rock
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