Moondance 

FA:  Dave Evans and Craig Fry - 1986, Direct start: Darrell Hensel and Dave Evans - 1986 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet Views: 158 page views Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Finishing the crux pitch of Moondance.

Description 

Sustained climbing on beautiful, impeccable gold rock. Brilliant route - one of the best on the face, without a doubt.

Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuous climbing leads past six more bolts and finishes with an exciting runout to a triple bolt anchor. A full length runner on the obvious rightmost bolt will help reduce rope drag and make the finishing runout more pleasant.

Pitch 2: Pass another set of double bolts and work up and right, joining Sundike for it's last two bolts. Pay attention making the hard moves to the double bolts, a fall will go directly onto the belay anchor.

The 11c crux can be avoided by traversing left into the first pitch (3rd bolt) from the Log Ledge belay of Sundance.

Location 

Between the Iron Cross and Sundance. Start the same as Sundance.

Protection 

Bolts and a couple of small cams (up to about .4 camalot) to protect the moves to the first bolt. A couple of large cams (plus can reach around the corner and clip a bolt of the Sundance Arete) for a belay at the base of the Sundance lieback. 60m rope recommended. 70m rope makes it possible to rapp Sundance.