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Picante 

5.12a

   

FA: John Long, Darrell Hensel, Kevin Powell, Dave Wonderly, 1987
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 160 feet
Views: 35 page views

Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 10, 2008


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Description 

Extremely good rock with exhilarating small edge climbing in sections. Although not seriously runout, spicy moves will be found a ways out from the bolts.

Make scary 10c moves up to the first bolt. Do a few 11b moves above this bolt and then clip a couple more bolts. At the 4th bolt move right about 10' and follow a series of small sharp edges on technical climbing (12a) to a scary standup (11b) that obtains the next bolt stance. From here, 11a climbing tends up and right to the top of Miscalculation.


Location 

First route left of Miscalculation.


Protection 

Bolts. It is possible to belay at the double bolts at the top of Miscalculation. However, doing so makes it a scary proposition for the person following. It is probably best to continue up on easy ground and belay at the obvious tree (slings, plus maybe some cams to 2").