Gates of Delirium 

FA:  Tony Yaniro and Richard Leversee, 1976 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  3 pitches, 250 feet Views: 81 page views Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

The first pitch is the meat of this route, and is quite popular. The second pitch is not as good and is seldom done.

Pitch 1: Hard face climbing leads past 4 bolts (11c past the first 2) and ends on the Drain Pipe ledge at a tree. On the first ascent of this pitch, Tony pulled so hard on holds that he was bleeding under his fingernails.

Pitch 2: Climb straight off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Follow the corner (10c) past one bolt and gear placements. From the top of the corner it is possible to move left to the Euphoria flakes, or continue up and right past another bolt to a belay.

Pitch 3: Follow cracks up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.

Location 

Far left side of the Sunshine Face proper.

Protection 

Thin to 2.5".