Mike Graham the crux P2/2008 Photo from stonemaste...
Description
I can only comment on the first two pitches, which I climbed on top rope. I'll add info on the rest when I climb finish climbing it.
Pitch 1. Follow three bolts up the rounded arete/roof to the right of First Pitch. The crux coming right by the bolt on VERY slick feet. Traverse left at the second bolt and then up past one more to No Go Ledge. Because of the slickness of the crux, I'd rate this pitch 5.11b. Bolted anchor
Pitch 2. Historical crux pitch, but not much, if any harder than the first pitch. Make hard 5.10 moves up to the first bolt, followed immediately by the crux to a second bolt. One more bolt on the increasingly easier face leads to the Hesitation belay. This pitch is definitely R rated unless you bring a stick clip to clip the first bolt, as you're looking at a ledge fall.
Pitch 3. Haven't climbed it, but it follows a bolted face up and right of the belay.
Protection
bolts, a very small rack up to 1" for the start of the first pitch and the end of the third.
I tend not to post routes that I haven't done. I don't what to TR this route, 'cause one day I might lead it. You've done it (albeit on TR), so you get to post it. Plus, I just kinda tolerate the slab.
You won't hit the ledge till you pull rope to clip the second bolt on the second pitch. Dicey stance and long fall to clip. Crux is first few moves right off the first bolt. Classic steep suicide face route. One of the best.
The second pitch doesn't really need a stick clip. Try it without first, to get the true feel of the route. In fact, it feels a little less committing now that there are belay bolts just off to the left.
Sunshine Face - Right Side
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