P1) Start about 20' right of some large flakes leaning against the wall (The Guillotine) and climb smooth face up past an overlap (.75 cam) to a bolt shared with Superfluous Bolt, and then continue up and right to another small roof/overlap. Load up the overlap with gear (.65"-1") and then make crimpy moves over the roof (5.10d) to reach a stance and another bolt. Continue past one more bolt (5.9) to reach a bolted belay. Note - it's a 100' rap straight to the ground from this anchor.
P2) Climb unprotected friction moves off the belay to a small flake up and left (thin pro) and then run it out to the top; fortunately the angle quickly kicks back and the climbing, while runout, is much easier.
Climbers comfortable at this grade will find this to be an enjoyable and high quality route that seldom sees much traffic. The name of the route is that of a 1972 Pink Floyd album that also was the soundtrack to La Vallee, a French film.
Protection
3 bolts, anchor (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" (mainly thin),
Yes we listened to Pink Floyd back then and it may have influenced the name some. The real story is, a fog rolled in while I was leading the first pitch. For a good portion of the Pitch I couldn’t see Tobin or Gib below. It was quite eerie.
You should be able to avoid the bolt on “Superfluous Bolt” but by all means let your comfort level guide you.
Making the move over the roof was pretty hard. I couldn't come up with a graceful way to do it, instead I pretty much just clawed and scraped my way up it. This might actually be easier for short people, since using the only decent holds left me all scrunched up.
Northeast Wall Routes
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