Starting the traverse on pitch one. Photo: Robs M...
Description
Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible (especially on the 2nd pitch).
This is the right-most line on the slab proper and starts near a large oak tree below a ledge. Easy scrambling (5.0) up a right-slanting ramp leads to a large belay ledge and the start of the climb.
P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) The crux comes almost directly off the belay as you traverse right to a small stance and the 1st of two bolts on this runout pitch. Clip the bolt and then work your way upwards, making some 5.9 moves way out from your last bolt. Clip the second bolt and your home free - a bit of slab paddling gains the top. Descend via Bye Gully.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jan 20, 2006 rating: 5.10a R
Ah, yes... fond memories 15 years ago of cutting my runout teeth on the traverse (and then up!) to the first bolt on the second pitch. Good, exciting times for a relatively green climber. The classic on the wall in my opinion.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca May 15, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Indeed a classic.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: The Idyllwild City Dump. Feb 18, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Rap bolted! Huh.Totally out of carrotier of this FA crew.Hard to believe,First I've herd of it.One of the best,if not the best route on this wall.What a shame if its true.
Saw the comment on the opening post about a Rap bolted second pitch and I must say it’s so not true. The slab may have been top roped from Sampson to see if it was possible but thats it.
you could be mistaken for the variation pitch which goes straight up from the belay at the top of the first pitch. There are more bolts on that pitch making it more popular maybe because you can’t even see the first bolt on TKG’s proper second pitch.
Thought I would clear that up.
Mike
visit this link to read a recent TR on this route.
The Weeping Wall
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