By G.McCay From: San Diego, CA Feb 20, 2008 rating: 5.10b R
| Wow! This route brings back frightening memories when I and K. Klis did this route back in the early 80's! If my memory serves me correctly, I remember leading both pitches, first, liebacking up a small, left facing dihedral to a liken spattered flake which you undercling for about 4-5 meters out to the left. You then, after the flake runs out, with the last cam under the flake to your right about two meters, pull off this crux high-step (5.10b) by smearing up onto a nub into a standing position and THEN clip the bolt! A short easy face brings you to the belay stance under the Toad's Lip (roof) above. ONE bolt protects you below on the face as you literally stand up under the roof, palming your way out backward then grasping the HUGE lip behind you. Once you cut your feet loose and you stop your legs from swinging, you heel-hook, I believe it's your right foot, over the lip and surmount it using good mantle technique.
THE FEAR ISN'T OVER...
You traverse about 6 meters back to the right, unprotected along the edge of the Toad's Lip, where you'll find the next bolt another 3 meters above on the wall (probably a 5.8 move), clipping it with great relief! Your partner does the same thing when he follows for he's just as unprotected as your were! The face above is runout 5.6 - 5.7 to the top. Good Lord! |