Nice climb with a bit of lie backing, a small bit of face and a few moves of offwidth.
Start by getting the first thin cam under the left angling flake and then you can face climb to the right of the piece and over it to get onto the left side of the flake.
Follow the flake system up, always staying left of new flakes/overlaps via some liebacks until getting under a wide section about 80' up. You can get a 1/2-3/4" piece deep inside to protect and then OW up the next few moves to a good handhold. Alternatively if you don't like groveling there are holds around the top of the small roof but it is much less secure.
Pulling over that last roof, if you have a 50/60m rope then go up and right about 15' to set a belay (100'). With a 70 meter you can go up and right a few feet, sling a small horn sticking out of the rock and climb easy 5th solution pockets to a small crack for gear another 10' up then easy 4th/5th up trending right until about 15' below where it levels off. Belay from there. Rope drag will be some what strong but your on easy ground.
Location
About 10' left of The Thin Man. Follows the left most flake/overlap of a series of overlaps.
Protection
Thin gear (down to 00 TCU) for the first 40', then normal sizes
I dont know why there is an R rating in the book for this climb. If anything maybe PG-13 for 2 moves. It is possible but perhaps unlikely that a fall after placing the first piece before putting in the second piece could possibly result in hitting your feet on the rock. By going right from the first piece under the flake and traversing up and left to the edge of the flake seemed like a couple of 5.6 face moves. If the belayer is paying attention and ready to pull in a little rope if you slip, a fall probably wouldn't result in anything. The offwidth section was the one part where the climbing is more difficult and you dont want to slip, and you are a good 8-10' above your last piece before you might be able o get a good hold.
In my opinion the face move at the start is the crux and the pro is somewhat questionable. It's about 95 feet to a good belay where you can toprope some other routes. Great rock.
Northeast Wall Routes
RSS Feed
