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Northeast Wall Routes
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Wet Dreams 

5.11a

   

FA: Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 293 page views

Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 9, 2007


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AJ on Wet Dreams. Photo by Kia Ravanfar


Description 

This is described as "more of a nightmare" in the guidebook. On the contrary, its actually quite cool.

Wet Dreams ascends the steep upper right side of the wall directly above Flower of High Rank via an obvious wide right-arching crack.

The climbing consists of bomber hand jams and a tough move into a downward sloping slot that can fit your entire body. The final exit move out of the crack will keep your attention for the entirety of the short pitch.


Location 

You can get to Wet Dreams from Flower of High Rank or Etude. Belay above Flower's roof. Due to the route's traversing nature, it is impossible to TR.


Protection 

finger- to hand-size cams.



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The slot on Wet Dreams

The slot on Wet Dreams


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Aug 26, 2007

Where is the crux of this not often done variation?

By Darshan Ahluwalia
Feb 18, 2008

The crux is probably getting into the slot...its downward sloping so its kinda hard to crawl into it...