Looking straight down at John Learned on Hot Butte...
Description
Not everyone will like this route, but it is a clean, high quality chimney that demands a lot of technique. It is very obvious - a huge, strongly flared, right-facing corner. You can stay in the back of the chimney for good protection or move outside for fun wide stemming moves (perhaps more appropriate when following). This route is in shade most of the day.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Feb 24, 2006 rating: 5.10a
This is a pretty intense route, although the protection is good, some small wires help - IF you're willing to do a bit of searching. The edge of Hair Lip can prove useful if you reach back with your right hand. I'd give it 5.10a.
By C Miller Administrator Mar 7, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Physical climbing that by it's nature is fairly secure. It's possible to climb this route facing in as well as out.
The climb is probably 5.8 if you want to stay out at the lip, gets harder as you go in to protect yourself.
By Jeff Dunbar From: Newport Beach, CA Aug 10, 2009
HBR makes for a great intro to the bizarre, thrutchy business of technical chimney climbing. Fortunately you can TR this one easily with a top belay by first leading Hair Lip (exciting) and then moving right 10 ft to the rap anchors for HBR.
Just lower your partner down from the top and then enjoy listening to him/her suffer on the way back up (the sound carries REALLY well straight up the chimney to your cushy belay ledge).
Do it this way and you will become VERY familiar with one of the coolest rock features at Suicide.
Protecting this thing was the crux for me. It's easy to lose body tension while fumbling for gear. I found a #3 Camalot to be a crucial piece early in the chimney (when standing on the detached flake). It was a flared, ugly-looking placement--the kind where anything other than a Camalot would probably walk out--but it was better than anything else I could figure out. Further up, I saw some possible small nut placements but decided that it was more efficient to wait for the constrictions where I could quickly plug in a cam. You'll see 'em. Mostly 1/2" to 1" size.
RSS Feed
