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Hot Buttered Rump 

5.9

   

FA: Charlie Raymond and Larry Harrell, April 1968
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 355 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006


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Description 

Not everyone will like this route, but it is a clean, high quality chimney that demands a lot of technique. It is very obvious - a huge, strongly flared, right-facing corner. You can stay in the back of the chimney for good protection or move outside for fun wide stemming moves (perhaps more appropriate when following). This route is in shade most of the day.


Protection 

wired nuts (mostly) and a few larger pieces



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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 24, 2006
rating: 5.10a

This is a pretty intense route, although the protection is good, some small wires help - IF you're willing to do a bit of searching. The edge of Hair Lip can prove useful if you reach back with your right hand. I'd give it 5.10a.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Physical climbing that by it's nature is fairly secure. It's possible to climb this route facing in as well as out.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a PG13

This climb is INTENSE. My rump is FOR SURE buttered.

By BoBB a
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 5, 2008

The climb is probably 5.8 if you want to stay out at the lip, gets harder as you go in to protect yourself.