This is a route that you won't soon forget! Start a bit to the left of a huge, right-facing flared chimney (Hot Buttered Rump). Progressively more difficult crack and then face climbing takes you up to just above (left of) the sharp lip of the chimney. The crux involves scary and very novel barn door liebacking, using the lip for handholds. The protection (bolts) is fairly good, but a fall could involve flying over the edge. This route gets morning sun.
By Dpurf From: Superior Feb 28, 2006 rating: 5.10a
This climb is great for a little thrill. I did not find the climbing that difficult. It is a head crux for sure. Once you are out of the cracks and onto the face/lip its clissic Tahquitz/Suicide slab climbing. The bolts are well spaced. Belay at the tree. It is 2 80ft rap to the ground. Move right along the ledge to a 2 bolts anchor. Then there is another 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab.
By Chris Miller Administrator Mar 7, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Solid moves on this, but make sure your head's in the right spot before leading this one - this ain't no sport climb! A fall in the wrong spot will most likely result in the rope grinding along the lip, the consequences of which could be disastrous.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 11, 2006
I was in Hot Buttered Rump one day when I got a visit from someone seconding Hair Lip. Also in classic Chris Owen scared witless mode I once forgot to clip a bolt....
That might have been us. We had a toprope set up doing laps on HBR in prep for a Yosemite trip. (Thought some of them could use some flared chiminey practice.)
Dave reached over the lip and grabed someone by the ankle. Neither one knew the other was there and they both about came off. We were laughing are Azzes off once we realized no one was going to peel.
Great route... excellent position and relatively easy climbing for the grade. I felt biggest fall would have come when leaving the crack and crimping out onto the face before reaching the easy terrain that leads to the first bolt. I felt the moves there were 5.9-ish and the moves after the first bolt more like 5.8 (the opposite of Vogel's guide). The 10a move is well protected by the third bolt, but you really don't want to fall on the easy terrain heading up to the anchor.
The rap from the tree had two tatty slings on them. I left a piece of 7mil cord, but didn't have any rings. If anyone is headed up there to do this, it would be great to add a decent sling and a couple of rap rings.
By Chris Miller Administrator Aug 29, 2006 rating: 5.10a
While possible to rap from the tree, a better alternative is to climb down slightly left (if looking down from above) to some hard to see bolts. From here make either a 165' rap to the ground (need 2 ropes) or make 2 single rope raps by rapping down to the anchors on Ours (5.10b) and then again to the deck.
Right of the Escalator
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