This was a bold route at the time of its first ascent. Today, many people bypass the runout 5.10D face on the second pitch, removing the "R" rating. The first pitch has an interesting sequence (5.10D) of thin moves by the first bolt. On the second pitch, an exposed 5.10A mantle leads to your choice of runout 5.10D (original way) or the 5.9 detour (runout and not boring) on the left. Pitch 3 has some runout moves (5.10A or B) on a low angle face.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 5, 2006
Did this route a long time ago upon spying it from the descent. Thought it was Small Affair Direct! Realized it wasn't the previously mentioned climb when doing the "Toad's Lip Mantle" at the start of P2. I kept thinking "I must be screwing this up it doesn't feel like 5.8". Did the arete variation (5.10b R/X in the guidebook) Fred managed to find a spike to sling.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 24, 2006 rating: 5.10d R
This great route is a fairly serious lead. The first pitch is reasonable but the second pitch is NOT for the timid. After the first two, the third pitch seemed considerably easier.
Godzilla Face
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