This is a quality three pitch face route. Pitch 1 (5.10D) has a long runout above the second bolt, with ground fall potential. There is a 15 foot runout for the crux move on the second pitch, unless you can stop half way through the move to clip a bolt.
An area classic, but you better be solid at the grade before trying this one on lead. Bolted anchors are now atop every pitch making it possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope. Quickdraws are the only gear needed for this route.
Rated 5.11b in the current guidebook.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 4, 2006 rating: 5.11a R
Years ago, on my first attempt I took a long fall on the second pitch trying to clip the bolt at the crux - had a sporty belay and ended up practically back at the anchors! Cracked a couple of ribs with my harness belt.
May 78 Followed Eric P1&2 Lead P3. Thought it was the hardest 5.10 I would ever do. What a noob I had holes in the toes of my EB's and was trying to wear them on the wrong feet. Eric yelled down just put your shoes on the right feet. Doh
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: The Idyllwild City Dump. Feb 7, 2008 rating: 5.11a R
I led all 3 pitches back in 80's it was one of my early 5.11 climbs and I remember the flying clip well,no falls but this climb screwed me up for bit after, didn't think I was ready for routes 5.11 or above if the pro was going to be like this.Never could figure out what he was standing on when he was drilling that bolt hole?
By BoBB a From: Visalia, Ca. May 5, 2008 rating: 5.11a R
Darrell and I had it worked out so the belayer could take a quick run down the hill if you took a fall trying for the third bolt. Scary up on second but felt relieved not to have gound fall looming...
I only TR'ed the first two pitches in one long pitch from the top. I think this route is much more sustained, and the crux harder, than Valhalla. The third bolt was looking a little old and should probably be replaced considering how vital it is. An amazing route though.
The third bolt is 3/8" and it should still be adequate for awhile. Unfortunately, it was not stainless and consequently it appears older than it is. When it does get replaced that would be a great spot for a stainless 1/2" bolt, given it's crucial location.
Another extra value combining of pitches can be done on this route. For a little extra challenge combine the first two pitches as a single pitch lead. Skip the 4th bolt on the first pitch (or unclip it after doing the move, or simply use a very long runner) to avoid bad rope drag when doing the climbing on the crux sections of the second pitch. Use a 60m or 70m rope. A 165' rope may reach if you keep it running straight enough.
Rebolting Face
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