This route follows a large, left-facing dihedral to the left of Le Dent (5.6 R) for one long pitch. Excellent hand and fist jamming (crux) on clean rock leads to a flared chimney above. Because of the dihedral, this climb is not in the sun until the afternoon.
Old school 10a. While the moves may not be over 10a this cimb is very continuous and athletic. You will breathe hard. A #5 is not a bad idea for the start if you like being well protected.
If you're over by the south face, then you must hop on this guy. Old school is right (FA in the 60s)! Burly start (5.9ish squeeze) to continuous, awkward fist jamming in a dihedral (10a). Lots of grunty chimneying (5.8) will bring you to the finishing moves, which involve a moss covered traverse on good jugs with horrible feet. Super pitch!
RSS Feed
