Nearing the first bolt on Superfluous Bolt. The c...
Description
My strongest memory of this climb is its serious runout (and I was following)! Down low, it's tricky but well protected. Then you head up a long, thin left-facing flake system with no gear. The crux move at the top of the flake can be protected (sort of) with a small wired nut. Pitch 2 is short and easy. Walk off right to descend.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Mar 18, 2007 rating: 5.10a
This climb requires small protection. I made use of a black alien which I usually try to avoid and another in that range would have been used if I had it. Bring all of your trick small gear. Micro nuts and offset small cams will be helpful although not necessary. Skill in gear placement can make this climb safe by Suicide standards but don't make this your first trad lead. Bring up to 2" gear.
Make sure to study the topo. For a while I thought I was supposed to go onto a 10d R face climb to the left of the route and I was getting worried. Then I saw the next bolt of Superfluous Bolt (camoflauged) above my head and realized that was the way to go.
There are at least two bolts on this climb, all of high quality.
By Brandon R. From: San Diego, CA May 19, 2008 rating: 5.10a PG13
There are a total of two bolts on this route, and I have to admit that I didn't think that either were superfluous! Only "trick" gear I placed were a couple smaller offset nuts.
I didn't think the pro on this route was really that bad. PG, maybe, but definitely not deserving of an R rating. The only sketchy pro section was the easy climbing in the thin flakes before reaching the dihedral where the second bolt is. Careful placement of smaller gear should hold any short fall you might take there. Regardless, interesting climbing the whole way, and a worthwhile route.
I wonder if the "superfluous bolt" is the one on the slab to the climber's right about 2/3 of the way up the dihedral. I haven't been able to figure out what route that's on... if any at all.
The bolt mentioned that is out to the right is on Shine On, the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds. When the previous comments were made Shine On was still unfinished, which is no longer true.