This climb provides a good introduction to multi-pitch routes. It is well-protected, has a variety of moves, and is not sustained. A fifteen foot section of face climbing near the top is the crux. It starts in an obvious notch, a ways to the right of the Cat's Cave Inn dihedral. Walk off from the top. This climb is in the shade most of the day.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 9, 2006 rating: 5.6
Good warm up route, or beginner route. Belay at a horizontal flake running on the left hand side of the crack. Nuts for crux second pitch (but it is short).
I think this might be a slightly uncomfortable lead for a new 5.6/5.7 leader unless they are good at finding features for the feet. There are hollow sounding blocks that lower confidence in some of the the pro options. There are 2 sections where you follow the small dihedral for 10-15' of pretty much just friction climbing and you will not be able to sew it up and would not want to slip. If you look for the feet on these 2 sections you will find them though and this is how to make that section more secure. The fin at the top was easy in comparison - just feel around.
A fun trad lead for the grade with good variety. Once I passed the crux toward the top, it seemed run out, but I heard from someone in the bar later that evening that there is a bolt just above the large fin/flake. I guess I missed it!
On the descent trail from this crag, you need to pay attention for the right turn that takes you back along the base, as the main trail goes elsewhere. If the trail starts curving left and downhill, you've gone a bit too far.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Feb 25, 2008
Via email from Don Lashier: "the other climber was Trish Raymond (Charlie Raymond's wife), not "Paul" Raymond."
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