This is perhaps the best route on the Smooth Soul Wall. It has mantles, edges, friction, and a novel traverse, all on excellent rock. With only three bolts and fairly sustained climbing, there are substantial runouts. Rappel 90 feet from a ledge at the end of the route (or continue up with an easy second pitch and walk off). It is in the sun all day.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.8 R
A good route for 5.10 (and above) leaders - this isn't a route you want to fall off when leading.
A direct finish (5.10+) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up from the 2nd bolt to join the last bit of The Fiend right before the anchors.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jan 11, 2007 rating: 5.8 R
This really is a fun route. A bit "spicey" as some would say, but the rock is so sticky and featured, that if one can overcome any insecurities of the protection factor, they can breeze right on up this.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Dec 20, 2007 rating: 5.8 R
Suicide? Aren't there just a bunch of boring slab climbs there? - Conversation I once had at Stoney Point with someone.
What a great character packed route.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Feb 17, 2008 rating: 5.8
Hey Guys; Whats all the Hub bub about the pro on this route? For that matter the whole wall! The bolts were placed on the lead where there was a place to get a stance to drill.This is a well protected route,done in the style of this Area and of the time.Thats why they call it (traditional) rock climbing.
By C Miller Administrator May 19, 2008 rating: 5.8 R
Bruce - The "hub bub" is to alert those drawn to the climb by the mild grade that it's no sport route and is a somewhat serious lead for those climbing at or near their limit.
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