This is a short, steep lieback on good rock, with easy hand jamming above the roof. The crack will accept wired nuts or tiny cams, but it is very difficult to see into the crack and place gear while leading. Fortunately, it is easy to set up a toprope. This route receives morning sun.
Protection
thin gear for the crux; medium size pieces on the hand crack above
This is not 10a by any means. It is much harder than Pitch 3 of El Camino Real (10a layback) and more sustained than On The Road (10c layback). I'd say its at least 10c.
Difficult to protect as mentioned in the description.
The new guidebook gives this route .10c, marking the initial part ".10" and the roof ".10c". IMO, the initial layback on lead is probably .10d, due in large part to the difficulty in finding solid gear. I wouldn't give the pitch an R, because good gear is available. I think the roof is easier than .10c as well.
Buttress Of Cracks
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