Pitch 1 (crux) is a classic steep finger crack. You can either rappel 90' from the top of this pitch or continue to the top with the second pitch of Flake Out (5.6) or Flakes of Wrath (5.9R). This climb is in the shade after mid-morning for most of the year.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 27, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Solo up from the left via easy moves (5.4) over sketchy stacked blocks or climb directly (5.8) up to the base.
A clean left-facing corner gains a wedged block and the traverse right to the short but quality finger crack. The rarely done 2nd pitch climbs dirty face to the top of the wall, but most rap after doing the 1st pitch.
A 70m rope will conveniently allow you to rappel from the 2-bolt anchor back down past the stacked blocks that C Miller describes and right to your packs.
The first pitch is one of my favorite pitches in Idyllwild. A must do!
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