This is a high quality slab route on great rock. It has three pitches: 5.8, 5.9, and 5.7. The bolts are fairly easy to spot - the biggest danger is heading for a bolt on a nearby (harder) route by mistake. This climb gets morning sun, and then goes into the shade in mid-afternoon. The descent is easy - just walk to the right until you can scramble down and back along the base of the rock.
Protection
#2 friend on pitch 1, before the first bolt. After that, no other gear until the anchor (long slings around a tree or placements in cracks) at the top of the climb.
On the first pitch use a green or yellow alien to protect. Also, the decent is done by traversing left 75 feet. A short exposed down climb leads to a rap station directly across from Piasono Pinnacle. Two raps will take you near the bottom of Bye Gully. From here there is a short down climb to the base of the Weeping Wall.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Apr 18, 2008 rating: 5.9
A quality route! Certainly NOT a soft 5.9. Even though the first pitch is 5.8, it is sustained and slick. The second pitch, (past the second bolt, is the crux. The grade is solid.....as better be your skills on slick slab with moderate runouts.
Additionally, the gear suggested by the page author is incorrect. The small, short crack on the face (left of the larger crack corner) is the start of the route. This crack indeed takes one or two medium nuts, or as suggested by the above comment, a yellow or green Alien (they fit perfectly!)
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA May 22, 2009
Besides quickdraws - all you need is a wire for the solid placement in the slot before the first bolt. Sling the tree at the top of the climb for a belay anchor.
My first route at Suicide. I hadn't been climbing that long when I lead this one. I had never led a trad route at 5.9 (actually my first trad lead was the day before on 5.4 White Maidens Walkway . . .), but I figured it would be no big deal since it was "bolted". I climbed it with 2 friends, Nick and Charles. On the second pitch I remember constantly feeling like I was way above the bolts, and the thought going through my head with each step was "please don't slip, please don't slip, please don't slip . . .".
My wife and Nick's girlfriend, Lauren, sat at the bottom and shared a bottle of wine while we climbed. The whole time Lauren and my wife were laughing hysterically at my Elvis leg, and heckling me from below. "Aww look, he's scared! HAHAHA"
After climbing pitch 2, the third 5.7 pitch felt really easy, and the fact that there was only one bolt didn't bug me too much :).
It was a fantastic climb. I'd love to climb it again today, since I'm sure it wouldn't seem nearly as scary as it did then . . .
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