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Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Valhalla 

Valhalla 

5.11a

   

FA: Ivan Couch, Larry Reynolds & Mike Dent, 11/70
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 1,130 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 20, 2006


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Terry Emerson, 7th ascent of Valhalla '73
Photo: M...



Description 

This ultra-classic tour of the Sunshine Face is perhaps the best face climb of it's grade at the rock, and long ago an ascent was a rite of passage that gained you entry into the fabled Stonemasters.

Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, and locate the start which lies just right of the pine tree.

P1) Climb past three bolts (5.11a) to the right side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt belay.

P2) Traverse straight right, clip a bolt and make crux moves (5.11a) to another bolt. Higher the climbing eases considerably but wanders a bit (full-length runners are handy on the bolts to reduce rope drag) to gain a two bolt semi-hanging belay.

P3) Straight up (5.10a) off the belay to reach a bolt, then slightly left to clip the first bolt of Sundance's 3rd pitch and then up and right past a final bolt to the top. Gear belay in cracks at the top.

Descend via Bye Gully or by rappelling back down the face (not recommended if the wall is crowded).


Protection 

bolts, gear to 2", include some full-length runners



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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Mar 11, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Took a plunge off the first pitch once, slipped off the black glassy knob and ended up back on the ground (or should I say ledge) - no harm done except to my pride. Got back on the horse and did okay - thin and technical is pitch 1...

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Nov 19, 2006
rating: 5.11a

As I recall, when Dan'O and I did this route, we kinda got off route on the first pitch vearing left over to Bukatude protecting the 11a move on that pitch (there were no bolts when we did it) with a few dubious sliding nuts under some flakes. The rest of route, was straight forward, and well protected (even by today's standards). Very much an ultra-classic, with a great heritage. P2 is "da bomb!"

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: The Idyllwild City Dump.
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.11a

Another 70's classic one best lines on this face.Just think about doing this route with 70's shoes and gear????? This route has been made easer due to today's shoe technology.

By cammo
Apr 18, 2008

Is this really 11a? It felt softer when I did it in 1989.
ls, is there still a bloody great tree sitting in the middle of one of the first pitches? That was the weirdest thing......

By BoBB a
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 5, 2008

Difficulty right next to bolts gets easier as you move up. Totally classic for the whole climb.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.11a

A classic for sure. Cool moves between features, rather than the typical "can you stick" slab. Well protected where you need it, though the crux on the 2nd pitch comes a bit up and right of the bolt. If Sundance feels comfortable, than by all means jump on Valhalla - you won't be disappointed. Be sure to bring lots of long slings for the 2nd pitch, or the rope drag will suck. And on the first pitch, your follower can be in for quite a swing if they blow it after unclipping the second bolt (still 10+). We didn't try it, but it looks like you could pull the rope through and drop it straight down to your follower and it will make it much safer.

By Darrell Hensel
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.11a

For some extra value added, the first two pitches can be combined into a one pitch lead. Do not clip the first belay anchors, and be sure to make liberal use of slings to reduce rope drag. Use a 60m rope, 70m preferrable.