Sundance 

Use a 41/2 on lie back at top of first pitch.

Sundance is a must do classic on this rock which follows a unique line requiring a variety of climbing techniques including a little jamming, liebacking, steep crimpy moves, mantles, high steps, chicken head gear, a long delicate friction traverse, and a long run out on an exposed face. And that's just the first two pitches. We decided to do the Sundike finish as it looked beautiful following a thin leaning dike system to the left. A beautiful sunny day with gusty winds made this pitch quite exciting as the bolts are widely spread (safe though) and moves are balancy and exposed.

5 star route all the way. I remember not seeing the last bolt before the traverse on P2 and I traversed over towards the arete a bit early. I think I ran into a bit of 10d territory, paused too long and took a nice fall. It wasn't until climbing back to that stance again, did I realize there was more "up" climbing to the last bolt. At least it made the correct traverse moves seem easy.

One of my enduring climbing memories is of leading the Sundike Variation on a cooling summer's eve with the Sun just above the horizon - pure magic.

Superb climb. This was my second time up the route. My partner put up pitch one and two. I got to lead pitch three which is excellent but HARD to protect. Takes a bomber #4 BD micro part way up the seam. Then some marginal finger gear higher up before easier terrain.

first time up this route. Last pitch was hard to protect, didn't have the tiny cams mentioned above, so basically sank 2 bomber 1.5" cams at the bottom & ran it out.

Cool route a must do. this is a great route to do in the winter on a sunny day very little snow run off if any.(NOTE; IN THE SUMMERTIME THE LOG ON THE LEDGE AT THE TOP OF THE FIRST PITCH HAS A GIANT HORNETS NEST IN IT.DON'T F_ _K WITH IT.)Or you know what happens next. bring small wire nuts #3 or #4 to protect the crack on third pitch put one in half way and go. don't like small wires or the run out a bit to much do sundike finish.

P1) Takes a small nut at the start, and then I just ran it out to the top of the first pillar. Not much in the way of pro in that section anyways. At the top of the pillar, work down and right to the base of the fat crack. You can loop the rope behind the pillar if you want "pro". I then went up the fat crack a bit and placed a #4 camalot. Then I returned to the pillar on the left and placed the rope in a perfect dish on top of the pillar (this protects the second at the start!). Back to the fat crack, up a ways, placed a #5 camalot (new style), and to the belay. Phew, lots of ins-and-outs-and-what-have-yous. But this method succeeded in reducing rope drag and protecting the second.

P2) 10b crank off the ledge, and then lots of 5.9 moves as you wander your way up to the belay. For those shorter than 5'11, the mantels on the knobs might prove to be the mental crux.

P3) We did Sundike variation. Balancy, insecure, but reasonably well protected climbing.

Rapped the route with a single 70m, but I think a 60m will just make it too.