This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress Of Cracks, just left of the Double Exposure arete and facing towards the Sunshine Face.
Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight on or liebacked depending upon your hand size or preference. Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10d) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.
Rap (if slings are in place) or make an easy downclimb off the backside which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail back to the base.
There are chains on top as of this posting. A 60 meter rope and 5 feet of easy downclimbing at the bottom of the buttress chimney get you down to the start.
By Scotty Nelson From: Boulder May 4, 2007 rating: 5.11b/c
If you are TRing, might want to bring a cordellete to extend the anchor from the chains over the lip.
I can't think of many better pitches in Socal than this one. Quite varied crackclimbing. Clean and strenuous. Hope to get back to Suicide soon.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Jan 29, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
This is the best pitch on this side of the valley The little sister to the vampire on the other side of the valley I led them both for the first time back in the 80's and they are musts for all visitors.For the hard man workout do them both in a day!
By Brandon R. From: San Diego, CA May 1, 2008 rating: 5.11b/c
5.11A?!? Is that a typo or should I be suspicious of all your comments?
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming May 15, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
Ok,Its B or C or what ever you say. I have led it a lot, So maybe it is a bit easier for me.Don't know. Crack-a-go-go is 11.C and it is for sure harder than Insomnia. Chris said its 11.B So I'll go with that.Theres only a few 5.11 moves on the route.The flared chimney is 5.9+ the moves coming out of the chimney and into the layback are the hardest moves I think.The upper portion of the crack is 10.D but go ahead be suspicious.
By Brandon R. From: San Diego, CA May 19, 2008 rating: 5.11b/c
The crux is pretty obvious, and quite awkward, at least for me. I've seen a small girl with tiny hands just straight in jam through the entire flared lie-back section, making it look much easier. As far as I'm concerned, if this is .11A, then I'd have to downgrade a whole lot of other .11A's I've done.
You post a lot of info about routes up here, so I'm just trying to suss out if your info is influenced by the "back in the day bravado" syndrome, or if you are really giving modern, accurate route beta. Maybe I'll see you up there sometime... I'd love to see someone float up this route, mainly so I can see what I'm doing wrong.
Brandon R. Save the grade wankery for the Riverside Quarry. Insomnia is one of the classic pitches in Socal and it's harder than 5.10 and easier than 5.12. Ya think climbing grades are an exact science?
By Brandon R. From: San Diego, CA Jun 16, 2008 rating: 5.11b/c
Thank you for your very insightful comment Michael Sokoloff, but I've never been to the Riverside Rock Quarry. Last I checked though, the whole reason for the existence of this website was to get accurate route information, so I think my comments are at least somewhat useful... unlike others here.
By Scotty Nelson From: Boulder Sep 3, 2008 rating: 5.11b/c
I think 11b/c is fair. And BTW if Crack a Go-Go is the standard for 11c, then Butterballs should be 11d.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Dec 26, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
Did you happen to notice they climbed the route in 2 pitches and the route briefly sported "fixed hexes"? They were a little off with The Pirate as well in thinking it would go free at only 5.11+.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Jan 6, 2009 rating: 5.11a/b
Yeah,I notice.I just found it interesting.It's for sure harder to do in one pitch and without the fixed hex's.The first time I led it there was only one fixed hex just below the crux.
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