Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Buttress of Cracks
Show routes:
Select route...
Arcy Farcy 
Blade Runner 
Bluebeard 
Bocomaru 
Buccaneer, The 
Captain Hook 
Double Exposure 
Double Exposure Direct 
East Buttress Gully 
Frustration 
Ham Sandwich 
Hernia, The 
Insomnia 
Low Pressure 
Nawab 
Pass Time 
Pirate, The 
Plague, The 
Shake Down 
Spatula 
Swashbuckler 
Sword of Damocles 
Walk the Plank 
Warm Up 
Winter Solstice 

The Hernia 

5.8

   

FA: Lee Harrell and S. Wood 8/67
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,035 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Ivan on easier ground about 30' up.


Description 

Starts up a right-facing flake or directly up the face to reach a finger crack at the base of a large hollow-sounding flake. Continue past the flake and over a small overlap/roof to a flared section (small gear in the back) and finish up a flake system with incut face holds.

Not your typical 5.8 route as it offers a wide variety of climbing styles and is sure to hold your attention throughout.


Protection 

Gear to 3" including wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap



Photos of The Hernia Slideshow Add Photo
Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux moves coming up.

Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux mo...

An awkward and insecure move from the right will get you situated in the crack system.

An awkward and insecure move from the right will g...

Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.

Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.


Comments on The Hernia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 6, 2006

The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2007

This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot.

By 858jason
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+

Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot.

By James R. Arnold
Apr 21, 2009

This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time.

By mmurduff
From: Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 11, 2009

I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others.