A mantle or high step and a long reach here gets y...
Description
Thin and continuous for much of it's length this challenging face route is best done when conditions are cold and crisp. Although runout in spots it's not dangerously so and probably doesn't deserve an "R" rating like the current guidebook suggests.
Climb a thin flake system, passing a black knob, and work up left and then back right to reach the 3rd bolt and the start of the difficulties. Move slightly right and up on tiny edges/friction (crux) to reach the 4th bolt and then continue up gradually more featured face to the top.
Although originally rated 5.11a this climb has gotten more difficut as it gets more polished and some of the tiny and crucial holds have broken off.
After being told by a nice local climber that this route was 10d, I was shocked and amazed at the lack of holds, size of holds, and difficulty of this rather smooth face. 10d, 10d, man am I out of shape! Am I blind? 10d, 10d, I could never, ever lead this. After a wrong hand mantle and desperate hard move to good holds at the first bolt, the climb continues up with almost nothing for hands and feet. At many places you wonder why the boots are sticking and why you are not on the rope. It is a LONG way from 3rd to 4th bolt and although much easier climbing (maybe 10c) than the crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt, this would be an incredibly bold lead. Good job first ascent party and anyone with a successful lead! I was relieved to find out that the 10d referred to was probably Arcy Farcy just to the right.
Originally the route was 11a, back when I lead it. Many people toprope it now that there are convenience anchors at the top. This results in a lot of feeble attempts with lots of slipping by people who are not up for the lead. Which results in much faster polishing of the holds than would have happened without the convenience anchors, so now it's quite a bit harder. Which results in even more people not wanting to lead it. Me for instance.
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