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Arcy Farcy 

5.10c PG13

   

FA: Mike Kaiser, Greg Bender, Phil Warrender & Jim Wilson 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 458 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Arcy Farcy (5.10d R)


Description 

This is the right-most climb on the left side of the Buttress Of Cracks and climbs smooth face past three widely spaced bolts to a bolted anchor at the top. Rap off or downclimb the gully to the right (5.5).


Protection 

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (100' rap)



Photos of Arcy Farcy Slideshow Add Photo
Bolts 1 and 2, with bolt three spaced at an even greater distance.

BETA PHOTO: Bolts 1 and 2, with bolt three spaced at an even g...


Comments on Arcy Farcy Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jan 10, 2007
rating: 5.10d R

This climb is fairly continuous at its grade, and many will find themselves a bit more wanting of protection than is currently equipped on this route (myself included!).

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 2, 2007

TR'd this one but there's juuust enough there to hold you to the rock. Man, I love slab! Awesome climb.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.10c PG13

I agree with Bill.....sweet slab climb. TR'd this first then lead it.

By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 6, 2009

This is one of those climbs where if your face chops are up to date, the pro will feel adequate. I haven't done it in years but some now consider it .11a given that many of the small flakes have fallen off over the years. The first clip has gotten increasingly difficult for that reason. A yellow TCU lower down makes for some nice insurance.

BTW, Darrel Hensel solos this. (!)