Buttress of Cracks

Description 

The Buttress Of Cracks is, as the name implies, a good spot for crack climbing but there's some good face climbs to be done here as well. The longest climbs here are two pitches with most being long, single pitch affairs. Descents vary from walk offs to rappels depending upon the climb.

Crack climbers will enjoy The Hernia (5.8), Sword Of Damocles (5.9), Frustration (5.10a), Insomnia (5.11b/c) and The Pirate (5.12d). Face climbers will want to try out Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Arcy Farcy (5.10d), Winter Solstice (5.11c) and Blade Runner (5.12b).

Getting There 

The approach trail will end near the right side of the Buttress Of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall. Continuing just past this wall you will reach the Sunshine Face and Smooth Sole Walls.

The Classics

Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks

The Pirate 5.12d  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks

Just right of the Double Exposure arete is this striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth, 85 degree slab. The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is sometimes attempted on toprope by climbing The Buccaneer (5.10c) to access the anchors; this route is seldom lead free.P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob, conveniently located next to the crack, above which the difficul...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA