This is a third pitch variation to Surprise that improves upon that route with a slightly harder but much cleaner last pitch.
P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue up and left on unprotected but very easy face (5.0) to a 3 bolt anchor. P2) Up and right along a ramp/flake system to reach a bolt (5.8) and then into an easy right-facing corner atop which is a 3 bolt belay (the regular belay for Surprise). Clip this anchor and continue right to a separate 2 bolt anchor. P3) Steep friction face (5.9) past three bolts to a gear belay on top. Descend via Bye Gully.
Fun pitch, but a serious lead. The first bolt is 20 feet out from the belay, and the moves just before the bolt are not trivial. Another 25 ft runout leads to the second bolt (actually doubled bolts.) The third bolt lies on easy terrain above where it's not really needed.
The pitch is fun, but I felt more "R" than the first pitch. I'm not sure why "Surprise" gets an R but this pitch doesn't.
The Weeping Wall
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