Suicide Rock

Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the...

General Description 

Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.

Please note - these is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Mickey Mantle (5.8 R), Serpentine (5.9), Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Hair Lip (5.10a), Revelation (5.10a), Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R), Sundance (5.10b), Godzilla's Return (5.10d R), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), The Man That Fell to Earth (5.11a), Rebolting Development (5.11b R), Disco Jesus (5.11b), New Generation (5.11c), Moondance (5.11c), Double Exposure Direct (5.12a R), Burning Down The House (5.12b R), Caliente (5.12c), Ishi (5.12d) and Someone You're Not (5.13a).

Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Spring Cleaning (5.6), The Hernia (5.8), The Guillotine (5.8), Flower of High Rank (5.9), Munge Dihedral (5.10a), Hot Buttered Rump (5.10a), Johnny Quest (5.10a), Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R), Miscalculation (5.10c), Etude (5.11a), Insomnia (5.11b), The Drain Pipe (5.11b), Chisholm Trail (5.11b/c), Paisano Overhang (5.12c) and The Pirate (5.12d).

Getting There 

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved). Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the The Weeping Wall. The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.

The Rock 

The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.

The Classics

Featured Route For Suicide Rock

Moondance 5.11c  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Sustained climbing on beautiful, impeccable gold rock. Brilliant route - one of the best on the face, without a doubt. Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Suicide Rock Slideshow

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My first time on the climb, gnarly. Photo by Tony...	Photo of Suicide from Devil's Slide trail.	Going old school..."most importantly, bring your o...
View of Tahquitz from roughly above the South Face...	The gorgeous slabs of Suicide Rock.	BETA PHOTO: The roadside sign across from the water tanks mark...
BETA PHOTO: Suicide Rock	Log on the approach trail that you must duck under...	BETA PHOTO: The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts almost ...
Shot from Fingertrip. I noticed the climbers above...