Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Select Area...
Others, The 
Suicide Rock 
Tahquitz Rock 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Santa Margarita River Trail
Beautiful views along the river and sweeping views at the peaks. Near Fallbrook, CA
Hanna Flats Singletrack
If you ride only one trail in the area, you gotta do this one. Near Big Bear Lake, CA
Gray's Peak
The icing on the cake - an out and back climb with great views at the top and a fun descent. Near Big Bear Lake, CA
Hanna Flats Loop
A local favorite and a must-do loop if you're visiting the area. Near Big Bear Lake, CA
Cougar Crest Trail
Rocky, technical and a blast to ride. Near Big Bear Lake, CA
Skyline Trail
A standout and must-ride trail in southern California. Near Big Bear City, CA
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,500'
Location: 33.7607, -116.679 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,940,281
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006  with updates from Sam Cannon
Forecast:
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Partly Cloudy
61° | 43°
Clear
64° | 43°
Clear
59° | 37°
Clear
59° | 36°
Partly Cloudy
53° | 33°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [6 people like this page.]
Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...

Description 

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent. Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock but the north side of Tahquitz is notorious for loose rock.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There 

From LA or Palm springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After a stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

From the San Diego via Interstate 215 take Highway 74 to the town of Hemet, from which it's 14 miles to the small town of Mountain Center and the junction with Highway 243. Drive 5 miles to the town of Idyllwild and make a right onto North Circle Drive (just past The Fort) and follow it to a stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

Weather 



Guidebook 

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area.

Adventure Pass 

As of mid-2014 an Adventure Pass is no longer required to park at Humber Park.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

382 Total Routes

['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',121],['2 Stars',148],['1 Star',80],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',36],['5.7',30],['5.8',33],['5.9',47],['5.10',119],['5.11',83],['5.12',30],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks:
White Maiden's Walkaway   5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress
Angel's Fright   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
Left Ski Track   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face : South Face - Left Side
Fingertrip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Coffin Nail   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
The Long Climb   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess
Traitor Horn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Dave's Deviation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   West Face : West Face - Left Side
Whodunit   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess
Flower of High Rank   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress
Open Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 490'   South Face : Open Book Area
El Camino Real   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Super Pooper   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Vampire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Insomnia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Green Arch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face : Open Book Area
Paisano Overhang   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle
The Pirate   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Browse More Classics in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Featured Route For Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
The Hangover

The Hangover 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side
From the second belay of Jenson's Jaunt, climb up and right to a steep left-facing corner with a couple of fixed pins that leads up to the massive overhang. A bolt up and left protects the crux: a huge dynamic move is required....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickabl...
Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickabl...
A great end to a great day in Idyllwild
A great end to a great day in Idyllwild
Lower Strawberry Creek, Idyllwild
Lower Strawberry Creek, Idyllwild
A unique perspective of both Tahquitz and Suicide ...
A unique perspective of both Tahquitz and Suicide ...
View of Tahquitz from the summit of Suicide Rocks....
View of Tahquitz from the summit of Suicide Rocks....
Cahuilla pictographs, Idyllwild
Cahuilla pictographs, Idyllwild
Cool Sunset in Idyllwild
Cool Sunset in Idyllwild
Terry ready to send!  Now on to the approach...
Terry ready to send! Now on to the approach...
Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Ta...
Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Ta...
Tahquitz from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Tahquitz from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Tahquitz on a bright winter day
Tahquitz on a bright winter day
A glimpse of Suicide Rock from the approach trail.
A glimpse of Suicide Rock from the approach trail.
Suicide Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Mount...
Suicide Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Mount...
Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild
Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild
Penny Tree detail, Tahquitz Rock
Penny Tree detail, Tahquitz Rock
Me on Whodunit
Me on Whodunit
the perils of bandit camping in Idyllwild...
the perils of bandit camping in Idyllwild...
Fire in the sky, Tahquitz Rock
Fire in the sky, Tahquitz Rock
Here's a sampling of food at the Market. I truly l...
BETA PHOTO: Here's a sampling of food at the Market. I truly l...
Suicide Rock from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Suicide Rock from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
One Hour Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Moun...
One Hour Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Moun...
Don Thompson  and Paul Richardson standing on top ...
Don Thompson and Paul Richardson standing on top ...
Lowering off Baby Cobra crack.
Lowering off Baby Cobra crack.

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2014
By Steve W Smith
From: Groveland, CA
Jul 1, 2010
Just spent 4 great days at Idyllwild climbing Tahquitz. Prepare to spend $20 per night at Idyllwild County Campground. $25 for the other campground. It has pay showers (50 cents for 3 minutes). If you can, bring your own firewood!!! It's $7.00 for one round split in quarters!
The general store opens at 5:30am. Great place to get a hot breakfast and watch the world cup as you plan your day. They bake fresh bread daily and I highly recommend getting your sandwich for lunch on the summit here! I had the best Italian sub of my life! I'll attach pics of the menu so you have a good idea.
If you plan to shop for groceries though, go down the street to the village grocery store. The prices are much lower! Much lower.
The guys at Nomad, the local climbing shop, are very helpful with any gear, but especially with local beta.
Lastly, there is rough camping in 2 locations near the town, but we found it pretty dusty ground, not great shade, and opted to pay for camping. Your opinion may vary. Daytime temps in June were 75 and nights were 50-55 degrees. Perfect!!
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jul 23, 2010
Beta for climbing in a party of three.



1930s film featured climbing in Tahquitz.
By Manjushri
Sep 3, 2010
Hello,
Can anyone pipe in on the rules/general guidelines for dogs at Suicide/Tahquitz? I prefer not to bring my dog, but could not find a sitter, so...
Thanks
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 4, 2010
Hey Guys-

is this really the "latest" guide available:


Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, 3rd Edition

Seems like its from 2001....anyone know if anything is in the works like, oh I don't know a 4th edition perhaps?

hanks!
By jack howard
Mar 27, 2011
i am sport climber. area sucks. old style climbing. huge runouts. add a grade on every route. i can sport lead 11b. i was climbing 9s here. lilly rock may be good for trad but suicide sucks. go to holcomb north of big bear for best local sport. good camping and hiking though
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 31, 2011
Is is to cold for Tahquitz? I'm planning on a trip this weekend, April 2. I've been to Tahquitz few times last summer and thought it might still be cold, wet, snow(?) at higher elevation.

If I don't go to idyllwild, I'm heading to Joshua. Any suggestions for areas (routes) at Joshua for easy 5.5-5.7 routes where I won't have to give my name to maitre d (wait in line).


Thanks
By Bubba1983
Jul 5, 2011
For those sport climbers who feel a need to bag on Tahquitz, learn your history. The YDS was created here, so odds are if you think you need to add a couple of grades here the areas you usually climb are underrated.

Tahquitz has some truly historic routes, including the first 5.9 in the country. Yes, it's not sport climbing. No kidding! What it is is some of the best, most accessible trad climbing in the world. Super clean rock and great weather.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Aug 25, 2011
Anyone have beta on free camping near Idyllwild?
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 26, 2011
Some recent threads on camping in the Idyllwild area -

mountainproject.com/v/secluded...

mountainproject.com/v/where-to...

mountainproject.com/v/overnigh...
By Isaac Shirley
Jul 31, 2013
Has anyone climbed up here since the mountain fire? the forest service has issued this information:

Due to the Mountain Fire camping permits will not be issued until further notice and the entire trail system in Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness is closed.

I figure that this would stop the climbing as well but can anyone confirm or deny.
By Daren
Aug 6, 2013
Stopped by a ranger station today (aug 6/13) and ranger said the whole area is closed.. I asked if it was all burned and she said no but there is still hotspots(?) and damaged areas around there so they closed all the trails. Apparently tahquitz isn't even damaged its just been closed due to the surrounding areas being damaged.
I decided to have a look for myself and go up to the parking area and that's closed off with construction taking place all around.. Nobody would give me details as to when it's going to open the ranger said to call every week for and update she wouldn't tell me anything, days, weeks, or months..

Goodluck!
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Feb 20, 2014
Stolen 'deer' in Idyllwild.
Stolen 'deer' in Idyllwild.


Someone stole a deer from in front of La Casita restaurant in Idyllwild a few weeks ago. This particular deer has climbers painted on it and is part of a town-wide display of deer painted by local artists. If you see "Rocky" at a friend's house.... Turn the dirtbag in.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Apr 29, 2014
If anyone found a custom, rusty-looking, long nut tool, please contact me. Last seen at NW Buttress, suicide rock. Made it myself; kinda like it. Thanks!
By Old Sag
Jun 17, 2014
Is this area still closed from the fire?
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jun 20, 2014
@Kevin No...People's been climbing there for over a year now