Lusty Vicar 

FA:  Aidan Maguire Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 40 page views Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 3, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Lusty Vicar begins just around the corner from the main face of Black Beauty Wall. It starts with an EASY (~5.9) pull over an overhang then ascends a not-steep flared crack. As you go up, the crack gets thinner and the climbing steeper.

The crack closes up as the wall gets vertical. There's a small pocket to reach to higher in the seam. This part is where the rating 'serious' is deserved.

After the pocket, you hit the crux - pulling through the roof via a flared jamcrack.

Protection 

Gear to 2". Chains up top. Suspect pro through the easy part of the climb but good pro at the crux.

As with all Black Beauty climbs, you may set a top rope by rappelling down from the anchors atop the cliff band or after climbing another route on the wall.