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5.7 Book 
5.8 Hand Crack 
Cat Scratch Fever 

5.8 Hand Crack 

5.8

   

FA: Vogl/Griffin 1984
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 96 page views

Submitted By: Aerili on Aug 17, 2009


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Gawking at the features on the Books classy 5.8.


Description 

Starts on the face of the outermost "book." Several cracks split this face, but the most obvious line allows you to start at the very bottom of the book, climb up ~30-40 feet until the crack widens and a small ramp appears across the face to the left. Traverse this way on face moves to gain access to another crack which leads to the top. Seriously good sustained 5.8 most of the way.


Location 

The only route on the Books which does not start off the slopey platform. You can downclimb from the platform and try the short hike down and around through the manzanita to gain the base. An alternative is to climb either of the two routes to its right, climb up and over the boulders on the top-out, and build an anchor on the other side above 5.8 Hand Crack from which to rap.


Protection 

Small to large. Sizes required range from 0.4 to 4. I believe I've used a #5 near the end of the line as well, but it's not do-or-die.

No fixed anchors. A lot of small loose rocks lie near the edge of this route, so bring several long slings or webbing to make an anchor farther back if toproping or rapping off.



Photos of 5.8 Hand Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Blue Sky, warm granite, and fun climbing. Just another day at Woodfords. This climber is on the 5.8 crack at the Books area.

Blue Sky, warm granite, and fun climbing. Just ano...


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By Ryan Curry
Aug 28, 2009

This is a really fun pitch. A lot of variety and continuity, it has a Joshua Tree-like feel to it. Save hands-sized gear for the anchor. Also, a #4 Camalot is nice to have near the top.