Me starting up on the interesting offwidth section...
Description
This beautiful and sustained finger crack follows a awkward offwidth crack into a clean splinter finger crack up a smooth head wall. With pefect finger locks and lye backs, this is by far one of the best cracks i have done!!! There are 2 ways of doing this climb which are: 1. Start from the left and traverse to the right into the finger crack 2. Or take the direct start on the tricky offwidth that makes the 10c grade pretty stiff. Though definitly the best choice if ur up for a challenge.
Location
This route is located around the corner to right of The Perfect Lyeback 5.8.
Protection
A standard rack from nuts, tcu's, and friends to 3 inchs should do fine and there is a bolted anchor with open cold shuts at the top.
The first ascent of this classy pitch, as well as the 5.10b just right of it, were made by Jay Smith and friends in the '80's. Both are pretty stiff at their respective grades. One of my favorite climbs on the Sun Wall is a long 5.10a chimney on the far right side of the cliff. A little run-out, it offers chimney to hands on impeccable stone and is super classic.
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