This route has a 5 star rating in the old guide, but it didn't quite live up to the hype. Some loose and crumbly rock exists in the crack and it ends poorly. The middle of the climb has nice hand jams while the pillar is a fun feature to climb. Overall a route of average quality.
The first crux comes from getting off the ground and a second crux comes from leaving a stance and gaining the hand crack just after the roof traverse. Higher up there is a small crack on the left wall that accepts nuts and smaller cams.
Location
The climb follows the left side of the namesake detached reddish pillar on the east side of the crag. The pillar is accessed by climbing to the arch and traversing left under the roof.
Protection
Standard rack with a couple 3-4" cams to protect the roof traverse under the arch.
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