Whisker Biscuit 

FA:  Dan Kennedy, Paul Tiesla New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 212 page views Submitted By: Ryan Curry on Feb 23, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Julie Gordon getting ready to sample Whisker Biscu...

Description 

With a variety of crack sizes, excellent and easy to place protection, and plenty of sun, Whisker Biscuit is a great introduction to Woodford's climbing. Starting above a nice belay clearing climb up to a small ledge and cruise up a fun thin-hands crack that turns briefly to fingers and leads to a prominent roof. Trend right under the roof into a hand crack that splits a bulge (first crux). Pull the bulge and continue up an ever-widening, leaning crack. Stay with the crack as it necks down to tips avoiding the ugly wide crack to the right. Crank a tenuous lieback (second crux), move up 10 more feet and either
A: dart left to a two bolt anchor/rap station above the Arrowhead or
B: continue straight up on 3rd class for about 30 ft. to a two bolt anchor that is located above the east-facing Walking Jack (5.10c) and lower down that climb. This may require a 70 meter rope.

Location 

This route is located 15' right of Arrowhead's "stalactite". As described above, there are two options for descent, both involving bolted rap anchors.

Protection 

From 3/8" to 3". Doubles of 2"-3". 3/8" cams protect the second crux so some may want doubles of those, also.