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DescriptionWoodfords Canyon offers year-round climbing. The south-facing side of Highway 88 allows comfortable climbing conditions during the winter months. When the mercury climbs into the 40's in Reno, the temperatures at Woodford's can allow for surprisingly comfortable climbing, assuming there are clear skies and light winds. In summer, the shady walls lying on the south side create perfect conditions during the hotter summer months. Getting ThereWoodford's Canyon is located in Alpine Co., Ca. along Highway 88, 20 minutes from South Lake Tahoe. There are quite a few different parking areas and trail heads. Take Highway 50 west from South Lake Tahoe. Drive through the town of Meyers, go left on Highway 89 (south), drive several miles to the junction of Highways 88 and 89. Turn left onto Highway 88 (east), drive down the valley which follows the steep East Fork of the Carson River. Towards the bottom of the canyon the road becomes less steep and to the left is an obvious south facing treeless mountain side. The golden rock formations above the bushy slope is known as The Fortress. Park on the north-side of the road next to rotating road condition sign, where a small stream runs along the shoulder of the road. This parking area is on the left after passing Crystal Springs Campground. Pull a u-turn after passing over the bridge and park in front of the aforementioned road sign. Follow the well beaten trail that goes upstream (west) towards a tree covered rocky ridge. From the ridge follow a decent climber's trail that is marked by cairns through a line of trees that lead to the base or The Fortress. The wall lying directly above the approach trail is known as the Donnie G and can be identified by a prominent "stalactite". Allow 30-45 minutes for the approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Woodfords Canyon:
5.8 Hand Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Books Area
The Perfect Lie Back 5.8 Trad, 60 feet The Fortress
Whisker Biscuit 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Donnie G
Quoia the Destroya 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet 2nd Alcove
The Red Pillar 5.9 Trad, 100 feet Red Pillar Area
I Be Jammin' 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet 2nd Alcove
Bush League 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet One Of These Days Buttress
Regular Route 5.10a PG13 Trad, 260 feet The Upper Crystal Springs ... : The Steeple
Cat Scratch Fever 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Books Area
One Of These Days 5.10b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet One Of These Days Buttress
Sun Wall Left 5.10c Trad, TR, 1 pitch The Fortress
Walking Jack 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet 2nd Alcove
O.U.L.D. 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet 2nd Alcove
Hillside Strangler 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Southside Crags : Strangler Cliff
Pump Factory 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Far East
Featured Route For Woodfords Canyon
O.U.L.D. 5.10d CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 2nd Alcove
With a combination of thin, balancy crack climbing, featured slab and exposed knob pulling O.U.L.D. is a climb not to be missed. The fun, bolted 5.9 slab warms you up and leads to the shallow corner that makes for the crux of the climb. Utilizing small cams and wires (RP's helpful but not necessary) carefully work your way up the beautiful tips/finger crack to a rest. Shake out and continue straight up the finger crack past some small bushes. Move left to a left trending flake peppered with kno...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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