This is the second from the right route of the not so overhung (5.12ish) cave in the center wall.
Climbing is never hard, but is sustained overhang and pumpy the whole way up. Rests can be found after nearly every move with some creativity.
The crux is getting to the first bolt, and cheating in from the right seems to be a preferred choice for the route, though it doesn't make it any easier. This route is all jugs once you get past the first bolt.
Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Shares the first bolt with Raindance (5.12a), and the last bolt and top anchors with Witch Doctor (5.10c).
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 29, 2003 rating: 5.10b
One star climb- It was worth doing for the pump, but I don't know that I'd bother again if I went.It's dirty at the bottom, with some suspect rock. Up top it's sharp jugs with pumpy moves to the chains. 45 feet or so tall. If the grade is testy for you, you should stick-clip bolt #1.
Disagree. The rock only looks suspect because it's typical Chief Choss. Looks like crap, but is bomber. The climb is awesome, great way to get a burn and work overhanging route at moderate grade.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Dec 15, 2008
I'd agree about stick clipping the first bolt if you're not confident in the grade - the first one's a doozy...
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