Short and sustained, this route is only 20 feet long, but it is .11a - b the whole way up. This is the route just around the corner to the right of War Paint (5.9).
There is no crux. The whole route is tough. 3 bolts of crimpy to pinchy to nonexistant holds on overhung to vertical rock. Excellent.
Protection
3 bolts to the shared top anchor, which is shared with the unknown 5.10a, and the top rope Early Bird (.12a).
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 29, 2003 rating: 5.11b
Sharp finger-cutters. Some locals there said that the crux hold had just broken and maybe now the route was harder. This seemed to be a point of fact rather than a rumor, as a few of them had done the route multiple times.Eitehr way, the moves were so-so and the holds were unpleasnat, and when you are done, you'll be only 25' off of the deck. Not worth the bother.
I did this route back in June 2002. At that time, I thought the grade (11b) is appropriate. This is not a three star route, I agree. Because of just the location and deceptive looking (short and not overwhelming)?, this route seems to attract people.
Big Chief - Center Wall
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