Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf-East Face
Show routes:
Select route...
Beast of Burden 
Blue Velvet 
Dominion 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Farley 
Fracture, The 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Lurch 
Morticia 
Opus 7 
Scheister 
Stone 
Taurus 
Telesis 

Dominion 

5.10a

   

FA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 126 page views

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 27, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

At the big rest in the middle of the crux section.


Description 

Fun and easy crack climbing leads to a groove with a thin crack and tricky gear. Surmount that with some layback moves and a couple of stem rests. Above that climb the low angle slab via flakes that lead either left towards Grand Illusion or right towards the gully, depending on your anticipated descent route.


Location 

On the right side of the east face below the large roof of Grand Illusion, just left of a gully. Climb some blocks up and left to a left facing corner/crack system to the crux dihedral. There is a nice looking crack left of this that also leads to the crux dihedral.

We descended from two beefy bolts up and left from the top of the climb and down and right from Grand Illusion. You can reach the ground with two ropes or you can get down with one rope via a sling transfer at the Telesis anchors. There are also anchors up and right from Dominion that, according the the guide, you can rap from with a 60m rope.


Protection 

All trad except for the anchors. 1 set nuts from brass to 1". At least one set cams from micro to blue Camalot. You can use a bigger cam in the wide crack, but it's easy there.



Add Photo Photos of Dominion
The route, partially obscured by the trees. The crux dihedral is just up and left from the center of the photo. Grand Illusion is the huge alcove at the top left. The Mini Illusion traverse beneath the huge roof at the top right.

The route, partially obscured by the trees. The cr...

Looking past the wide section towards the crux. The wide crack can be protected with a blue Camalot. A bigger cam can be placed higher. The wide section is easier and shorter than it looks.

Looking past the wide section towards the crux. Th...


Add Comment Comments on Dominion
Show which comments
By Will12
Nov 17, 2007

Very reasonable for the grade and includes some awesome hand jams and lie back moves. Fun route and worth doing.